FROM the moment the cacao beans are fed into the crusher to the time these are panned out to the molder as sticky glue, Emma Cuyos, 60, did not take her eyes off the chocolate-churning process.

One stray moment and the method is compromised, the quality in doubt. For Cuyos is no average factory supervisor. Her knowledge dates 150 years back to a great-grandmother in Cebu who kept the art of chocolate-making a guarded secret.

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